Possible Reasons:

The door isn't locked.

The timer or selector button is in the wrong position.

No power is reaching the unit.

The door switch is defective.

Some wires are loose.

The timer is defective.

What You can Do:

Relock the door.

Check the setting of both the timer and selector button.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Check the door switch for damage.

Check all the terminals on both the

timer and motor.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons:

The water isn't hot enough.

The dishes are not correctly

prepared for washing.

The dishes aren't stacked

correctly.

The detergent is too old.

The detergent dispenser

doesn't open.

The spray arms are blocked.

There is no water in the tub.

What you can do:

First, check the temperature of the

hot water from the tap - it should

be between 140oF and 150oF.

Also check the hot water setting.

Scrape and rinse all dishes before

loading the dishwasher.

Dishes can't touch and must face

the direction of the spray to get

completely clean.

Start over with fresh dishwasher

detergent.

First, check the detergent cup and

remove hardened detergent or

mineral deposits. Also be sure the

lid is not blocked and check the

dispensor solenoid. The timer 

may be defective.

Check and make sure nothing is

blocking the arms.

See next section of the chart. 

Possible Reasons:

There is a defect in the water

in the water inlet valve or

solenoid.

The water filter is clogged.

The overflow switch has a

defect.

The timer is defective.

What you can do:

Check the valve.

Check to see if your water inlet

valve has a filter and clean it.

Check the switch. If it freezes in

the FULL position, the unit will not

fill.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons:

The water inlet valve is stuck.

The timer is defective.

There is a defect in the over-

flow switch.

What you can do:

Check the valve and see if you can

shut it.

Replace the timer.

If the switch is frozen in the

EMPTY position, the water will

continue to run.

Possible Reasons:

There is a kink or a clog in

the drain hose.

There is a defect in the

pump motor.

The timer is defective.

What you can do:

Disconnect the drain hose and

blow through it to be sure it's

clear.

Call a qualified contractor.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons:

There are mineral deposits on

the heating element.

The heating element wire is

loose.

The heating element has

burned out.

The timer is defective

What you can do: 

The deposits should come off with

vinegar.

Check all the electrical connections

around the heating element.

Replace the heating element.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons: 

The door seal is damaged.

The overflow switch is

defective.

The door hinges are broken.

The heating element nuts

are loose.

The hose clamps are loose.

What you can do:

Replace the door seal. Check the switch for damages.

Replace the hinges.

Tighten the nuts that attach the

element to the tub.

To see if there's a loose connect-

ion, you may have to move the

unit.

Possible Reasons: 

The spray arm is hitting the

dishes.

The water inlet valve is

damaged (a knocking sound

while the unit fills).

There isn't enough water

in the tub.

What you can do:

Reload the unit, so dishes don't

touch the spray arms.

Replace the water inlet valve.

Stop using other faucets while the

dishwasher fills.

Possible Reasons:

There is no power.

The on/off switch is defective.

The overload protector switch

is tripped.

The motor has a defect.

What you can do:

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.

And if the disposal is plugged into

a wall outlet, check the outlet.

On continuous-feed models, check

the wall switch. On batch-feed

models, check the stopper switch.

If the flywheel is jammed, free it. 

Then, push the reset button.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The flywheel is jammed.

The motor bearings have

frozen.

What you can do:

Free the flywheel.

Call a qualified contractor. You'll

probably have to buy a new unit.

Possible Reasons:

Too many appliances are

plugged into the circuit.

What you can do:

Install a 15-amp circuit just for the

disposal.

Possible Reasons:

The on/off switch is defective.

What you can do:

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

There is not enough water.

There is improper waste in

the unit.

The shredder ring is dull or

the flyweights are broken.

What you can do:

Run more cold water when using

the disposal.

Only dispose of materials allowed

by the manual.

Replace defective parts.

Possible Reasons:

There is not enough water.

The drain is clogged.

The disposal isn't grinding

finely enough.

What you can do:

Run more cold water when using

the disposal.

Don't use harsh chemical agents.

Flush with hot water to remove a

grease clog, then remove the

drainpipe and clear it.

Replace a dull shredder ring or

any broken flyweights.

Possible Reasons:

There is a metallic object in

the unit.

The mounting screws are loose.

A flyweight is broken.

The motor is defective.

What you can do:

Inspect the unit and fish out the

object with tongs or forceps.

Tighten the mounting screws.

Replace the broken flywheel.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The sink connection is loose.

The drain connection is loose.

The housing gasket is damaged.

What you can do:

Tighten the flanges holding the

gasket or replace the gasket.

Tighten the drain flanges or

replace the drain gasket.

Replace the gasket.

Possible Reasons:

There is no power at the outlet.

The power cord is damaged.

What you can do:

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Check the outlet with a VOM or a

lamp. If refrigerator blows fuses, put it on it's own circuit.

Replace the cord.

Possible Reasons:

The condensor coils

are dirty.

The condensor fan is defec-tive (frost-free type).

The voltage reaching the unit

is incorrect.

There is a defect in the therm-

ostat.

There is a defect in the

compressor.

What you can do:

Clean the coils.

Clean the fan.

Check the voltage with a VOM, then

call the power company if it's not

between 105 and 125 volts.

Test the thermostat and replace

if neccessary.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The wrong voltage is reaching the unit.

There is a defect in the

compressor.

The refrigerator is leaking.

The condensor coils are

dirty.

What you can do:

Run the unit on its own circuit and

check the voltage at the outlet.

Call a qualified contractor.

Call a qualified contractor.

Clean the coils.

Possible Reaons:

The thermostat is on the wrong

setting.

The condenser coils are dirty.

The door gasket is damaged.

The door sags.

There is heavy frost accumula-

tion.

The door is open too much.

The weather is hot and humid.

The light is on inside.

The insulation in the door and

sides are wet.

The room is too warm.

The evaporator fan is damaged.

The condenser fan is damaged.

The defrost fan is defective.

The refrigerant has leaked out.

What you can do:

Change the thermostat

temperature.

Clean the coils.

Check the gasket.

Straighten the door.

Defrost the unit more often.

Open the door as little as possible.

Check the door open switch.

Open the unit on a dry day and

let it dry out. Also, repair or

replace cracked door jams and

panels.

Move the refrigerator to a

cooler place or start cooling

the room.

Check the fan for damage.

Check the fan for damage.

Check the timer for defects.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The door is open too much.

The door sags.

The door gasket is damaged.

Foods are left uncovered.

The drains are clogged.

The defrost timer, heater, or

thermostat is damaged.

What you can do:

Open the door as little as possible.

Straighten the door.

Test the gasket and replace it.

Cover or seal all foods, especially

liquids.

Open and clean all drains.

Check the timer, heater and

thermostat for defects.

Possible Reasons:

The unit is not sitting level.

The drain pan rattles.

The compresser mounts are

hard or broken.

The fan blades are blocked by

something.

What you can do:

Adjust the position of the unit.

Move the pan so it doesn't touch

the sides of the unit.

Replace the mounts.

Check the evaporator and com-

presser fans for obstructions.

Possible Reasons:

The drains are clogged.

The drain pan is dirty.

What you can do:

Open the drains and flush them.

Clean the pan and disinfect it.

Possible Reasons:

The drain hose or drain pan is

broken.

The drains are clogged or the

pan is full.

What you can do:

Replace the broken parts.

Open the drains or empty the

drain pan.

Possible Reasons: 

No power reaching the range.

What you can do:

Check the fuse box or circuit breaker. If you

don't find a problem, call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The element, wiring, terminal block or switch

is defective. 

What you can do:

Check each part for continuity and replace if

neccessary.

Possible Reasons:

The element, wiring,

thermastat or selector

switch has a defect.

The time is not set properly.

The timer is defective.

What you can do:

Check each part for continuity and replace

any that are defective.

Reread the instructions and reset it.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons:

The pan is the wrong size.

The element is damaged.

What you can do:

Use the flat-bottomed pans that just cover

the element.

Replace the element.

Possible Reasons:

The oven is in its self-cleaning cycle.

What you can do: 

The extremely high power requirement

during cleaning may prevent the stove

from working.

Possible Reasons:

A vent is clogged.

What you can do: 

Clean the vent.

Possible Reasons:

The door gasket is damaged

The thermastat isn't

collaberated corectly.

What you can do:

Replace the gasket.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The bulb is burned out.

There is a defective switch

or wiring to the bulb socket.

What you can do:

Replace the burned-out bulb with the same

type of oven bulb.

Test the wiring and switch, then replace

defective parts.

Possible Reasons:

The timer hasn't been set

correctly.

The timer fuse has blown.

There are loose connections.

The timer is damaged.

What you can do:

Check the instructions and reset it.

Check the 15-amp fuse in the timer circuit.

Turn the power off and check the timer

connections for continuity.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons: 

A hinge spring is defective.

What you can do:

Replace the defective part.

Possible Reasons:

The vent is clogged.

The door doesn't close

properly.

The oven doesn't preheat

properly.

What you can do:

Check the vent. If there is an air filter, clean

or replace it.

Check the gasket and door hinge springs.

Preheat the oven with the door ajar.

Possible Reasons:

A fuse is blown.

The wiring is defective.

What you can do:

Check the 15-amp fuse in the accessory

circuit.

Check the wiring and replace any damaged

wires.

Possible Reasons:

The door isn't locked.

The door switch, wiring or thermostat is defective.

What you can do:

Try starting over again.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons: 

The pilot light is out.

The gas isn't on.

What you can do:

Follow the instructions for relighting the pilot

on your particular range.

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

The pilot port is clogged.

The range is in a drafty place.

What you can do:

Use a small wire to clean the ports.

Try to prevent drafts near the range.

Possible Reasons:

The burner is clogged.

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

What you can do:

Clean the burner ports.

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

The oven pilot light is out.

There is a defective thermocouple.

The gas isn't on.

What can you do:

Follow the instructions for relighting the oven

pilot on your particular range.

Replace the thermocouple.

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

The safety thermocouple is defective.

What you can do:

Call the gas company.

Replace the thermocouple.

Possible Reasons:

The door gasket is damaged.

The exhaust fan is clogged.

There is a defect in the thermostat.

What you can do:

Replace the gasket.

Clean the vent.

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons: 

There is an incorrect

mixture of gas and air.

What you can do:

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

There is an incorrect

mixture of gas and air.

What you can do:

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

The pilot is out.

The gas line is leaking.

What you can do:

Venilate the room and relight the pilot.

Call the gas company. Venilate the room,

extinguish all flames and don't turn on any

electrical switches.

Possible Reasons:

No power is reaching the outlet.

The safety switch is tripped.

The inlet house valve may not be open.

What you can do:

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Distribute the clothes evenly in the

basket and make sure the lid is

completely closed.

Open the inlet valve.

Possible Reasons:

The filters are clogged.

There is a kink in one of the hoses.

The timer is not set.

What you can do:

Check the inlet hose filters and clean them.

Straighten the water supply hoses.

Turn the timer slightly or press the buttons

firmly.

Possible Reasons:

The overflow switch hose is disconnected.

The overflow switch is defective.

The timer is defective.

The mixing valve is damaged.

What you can do:

Replace the water hose.

Check the switch and replace it.

Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor.

Replace the valve.

Possible Reasons:

The lid safety switch is tripped.

There is too much laundry in the tub.

The motor is defective.

The timer is defective.

What you can do:

Make sure that the lid is closed. If it is - check

the switch.

Take some things out and wait 15 minutes for

the motor to reset.

Call a qualified contractor.

Replace the timer.

Possible Reasons: 

The drive belt has become loose or broken.

The gears or transmission is broken.

What you can do:

Tighten the belt or replace it.

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The machine or load isn't level.

What you can do:

Adjust the machine's feet or redistribute

the load.

Possible Reasons:

There is a loose hose connection.

The hoses are defective.

The gasket is damaged.

The mixing valve has a defect.

The pump is damaged.

The overflow switch or sensor is defective.

What you can do:

Check or tighten the connection.

Replace the hoses.

Check the gasket, then replace it if neccessary.

Check the valve for cracks, then

replace it if neccessary.

Call a qualified contractor.

Check for defects and replace bad

parts.

Possible Reasons:

There is a kink in the drain hose.

The position of the drain hose is too high.

The timer is defective.

The drain pump is stuck.

What you can do:

Straighten the hose.

The hose shouldn't empty more than 4 feet

above the floor.

Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor

Call a qualified contractor.

Possible Reasons:

The water heating setting is too low.

The water supply hoses are misconnected.

There is a defect in the mixing valve.

The timer is defective.

What you can do:

Reset the thermostat to 140o-160oF.

Reverse the hose connections.

Replace the defective valve.

Replace the timer or call a qualified contractor

Possible Reasons:

The pilot light isn't lighted.

The pilot light won't keep

burning.

There is a clog in the burner.

There is a defective

thermocouple.

The gas is not coming out.

What you can do:

Carefully relight the pilot.

Make sure the gas controls are

completely turned on. Then, check

the thermocouple and be sure it is

firmly connected to the gas control

unit and positioned near the pilot

flame.

Call a qualified contractor.

Replace the thermocouple.

Call the gas company.

Possible Reasons:

The thermostat isn't correctly

set.

The thermostat is defective.

Hot water pipes are exposed.

The water tank is too small.

There is a clog in the burner.

Sediment has formed in the tank.

The hot water pipes are leaking.

What you can do:

Turn the thermostat higher.

Call a qualified contractor.

Insulate the hot water pipes.

Install a larger water tank.

Call a qualified contractor.

Turn off the gas and drain the tank.

Repair or replace the faucets.

Possible Reasons:

Scale and sediment have formed

in the tank.

What you can do:

Turn off the gas and drain the tank.

Possible Reasons:

The thermostat is on the wrong

setting.

There is a thermostat defect.

The exhaust vent is blocked by

something.

What you can do:

Reset the thermostat.

Call a qualified contractor.

Check the vent and clear it.

Possible Reasons: 

There is a leak in the draincock.

The safety valve is leaking.

The tank has a hole in it.

There is a leak in the plumbing

connection.

What you can do:

Close it tightly or replace it.

Check the water temperature. If it is too

hot, the thermostat may be broken. If

safety valve is defective, replace it.

Buy a new water heater.

Call a plummer if not in this article.

Possible Reasons:

The heater has no power.

The safety thermostat has

quit working.

There is a defect in the

heating thermostats.

There is a defect in the

heating elements.

Rust or sediment has

accumulated in the tank

or pipes.

What you can do:

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker. If

the heater rapidly blows fuses, call

an electrician.

Push the reset button. Test the heat-

ing thermostats and elements.

Test the thermostat and replace

them if neccessary.

Test the elements and replace them

if neccessary.

Drain and flush out the pipes.

Possible Reasons:

The thermostat is set wrong.

The tank is too small.

Heat is getting lost in the pipes

There is a defect in the

heating element.

The hot water faucets leak.

What you can do:

Turn the thermostat to a higher

temperature.

Install a larger heater.

Move the heater nearer to the point

of use if possible and insulate the

hot water pipes.

Test the element, then replace it.

Repair or replace the faucets.

Possible Reasons:

The thermostat is on the

wrong setting.

There is not enough insul-

ation around the thermostats.

The elements are defective.

The thermostats are defective.

What you can do:

Turn the thermostats to a lower

temperature.

Pack the insulation more tightly

around the thermostats.

Test the elements, then replace

them.

Test the thermostats, then replace them.

Possible Reasons:

The gasket or seal on the

element is defective.

There is a defect in the

safety valve.

the tank is rusted through.

The plumbing connection

leaks.

What you can do:

Check and replace the gasket or seal.

Check and replace the safety valve.

Buy a new water heater.

Call a plumber.

Possible Reasons: 

Rust, scale or sediment has

accumulated in the tank.

Scale has formed on the

elements.

What you can do:

Drain the tank and flush it out.

Remove the elements and soak them

in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.

Possible Reasons:

is rusty or

discolored. Rust or sediment has

accumulated in the tank.

Scale has formed on the

elements.

The water pipes are corroded.

What you can do:

Drain the tank.

Remove the elements and soak them

in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.

Have a plumber replace the pipes.

Possible Reasons:

The drain hose from the

condenser pan is clogged

(in attic installations)

What you can do:

Make sure the hose is able to empty the

water.

Possible Reasons:

There may be something

clogging evaporator unit

or blocking the fan.

What you can do:

Clean out the evaporator unit.

Possible Reasons:

The condenser coil is dirty.

There is direct sun on the

evaporator unit.

The insulation has fallen

off the feed line.

What you can do:

Clean any debris from the condenser unit so

air can circulate around the fins.

Create shade for the unit.

Secure the insulation firmly to line and replace

any worn-out insulation.